Finding Inspiration

Anaerobic endurance training, the idea of which is to sit at or just below your anaerobic or lactate threshold for extended periods, sucks. Completely.

Ones anaerobic threshold is the point where the body is demanding more oxygen than it can deliver, and elevated lactic acid levels ensue. It is related to a genetically determined measurement called VO2 max - the maximum volume of oxygen uptake per minute per kilogram of bodyweight. Current thinking confers that VO2 max can not be increased - one can only condition themselves to increased amounts of time spent at their maximum.

I train anaerobic endurance six weeks prior to an alpine climbing trip, using a treadmill and heart rate monitor. A session consists of three sets: run just under your LT (lactate threshold) for 7 minutes, followed by jogging for 7 minutes. I bump up the set times each week, aiming for12 minute sets by the end of the six weeks.

For me, with a MHR of 192bpm and LT around 185bpm, this means operating at heart rates of 180bpm and 160bpm. There is no enjoyment or pleasure derived, or any sense of achievement. It is purely just a grind.

Up until yesterday, I have lacked motivation and purpose to my training. The last alpine trip to the Darran Mountains was snowed out - we didn’t even get to the hut. And the trip before that to China was a total waste of time.

But yesterday while struggling with the second set, my mind wandered. I remembered why I do this - sharing the hardships, beauty and rewards of a mountain with friends. The third set was much easier.

Climbing at The Bluff, Victor Harbour

Location: Petrel Rock
Route: Choice Cut, 10 metres, grade 14
Style: Off-width start, fist crack / face holds finish
Fun Factor: 4 out of 5 (for the off-width inclined :)
Photos: Mike